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by Stephen Fowler

The most important principle or activity in keeping any animal in captivity is to reduce stress experienced by the captive. The sources of this stress can be categorized for the convenience of discussion as: Environmental, Dietary, Social, Genetic and Disease. Stress from any source is totally and completely cumulative on the well being of the captive and as such is only categorized for the convenience of discussion and resulting management options. The use of aviary techniques to reduce stress can actually prevent a disease organism that is latent in the flock, from developing by promoting or allowing natural resistance to prevail. This is a very powerful result beyond the reach of our antibiotic culture.

 

Most veterinary discussions about animal care focus on disease as the source of stress. This clinical discussion, while especially useful in individual pet care, is far too narrow to be completely useful to the animal keeper managing a large group of animals. The focus of this article will be on allaying problems whose source can be found in all areas of stress generation: Part one will cover some areas of Environmental Stress. Dietary Stress, Social Stress, Genetic Stress and Disease Stress will be covered in later articles.

 

The discussion of animal care and management from the perspective of cause not symptom has been very useful to me over the years, as it is far easier to manipulate potential sources of stress than second-guess symptoms caused by some cumulative group of stresses. This approach involves making management changes then listening to your flock for any change in chatter.

 

This approach gives access to some of the reasons why when a novice (beginner) might single-mindedly follow instructions of a champion (successful breeder) with the novice often not getting the same result as the champion. Also implicit in the focus of this method is that veterinary care of individual birds, however effective, is not the procedure of choice in maintaining a large flock of breeding birds. Stated another way, any bird that succumbs to a major disease (chronic or catastrophic) is lost to the breeding program even if it survives, so prevention is the only effective path for the group.

 

Environmental Stress Defined:

The Stress experienced by the captive from the caging and the location of the caging itself is the total environment in the case of a captive bird. These sources of stress are most commonly dealt with in the standard budgie texts so we will restrict our comments to a few subjects not usually found in “How to” Budgie texts:

 

Zinc poisoning from the cage galvanized coating: I feel that this may be an important yet not often discussed issue.  Budgerigars hang on the wire with their beaks rather a lot, providing an ample opportunity for ingestion.

 

We allow our welded wire to age (oxidize) outdoors for several months sometimes years before using it.  After aging, and brushing to remove flakes, we coat the oxidized wire with a low-viscosity water based acrylic-flooring product to reduce further flaking of the zinc and ingestion. Lead poisoning is rare but the chewing of old wood surfaces can expose older layers of toxic paint pigment. Cover all chewable surfaces with sheet metal or one of the newer Portland cement based boards edged with metal. Since I live in a very rural area, I can also safely provide Mesquite branches to distract from destructive chewing and provide nutrition to the birds especially in spring when the growth is new.

 

We use ½ X 1 and ½ X 2 inch-welded wire to contain the birds. This wire will not repel mice at all so I further cover all external openings where necessary (including the fan opening and vent) with 1/3-inch hardware cloth to handle the all the rodents. All external openings are also covered with either 60% shade cloth, 80% shade cloth or bug screen to repel mosquitoes and flies.

 

We minimize the use of wood in any of our animal enclosures. Wood is difficult to clean and disinfect. Twenty years ago I used to keep my birds in homemade cages that would be classed as fine cabinets, but disease struck my flock in 1987 and I burned all of my fine cabinets in a bonfire like Salem Witches.

A car headlight or a cat strafing the aviary of roosting birds: Double aviary wire and strategically placed sight-barriers and wind deflection shields perform wonders in reducing stress caused by exposure. Over the years I have learned much about the night stresses of my birds by taking an occasional quiet stroll through my aviary at night, where breathing and air sac mite issues become apparent in the night stillness. Often rodents and worse may be observed running silently over the wire silhouetted against the night sky.

 

Rigid perches in the flight: Having perches that move on impact is actually a critical issue for passerine birds like canaries. I also believe we could effect a lifestyle health improvement in budgies by paying attention to this subtle exercise issue in our flights. The low amplitude spring action of a perch that is affixed at only one end gives a powerful if subtle exercise to our charges. This may be analogous to the stress reduction effect of standing on bare concrete verses standing on a rubber mat on humans. The forces generated by this impact can fatigue the ½ X 1 wire holding the perch over years of use so plan on using the largest fender washers possible to minimize maintenance.

 

The use of cedar or corncob bedding in the nest box or flight: Any wood that has an odor such as cedar or pine has a potential for liver damage when used in close quarters. Ground corncobs carry too many mould spores to be healthy in a confined space. I use shredded aspen bedding and coconut choir in my nest boxes, as they are the safest bedding available and shredded aspen packs to form an absorbent mat in the nest box.

Lack of fresh air: Every budgie text even those in the chilly, damp UK emphasize the importance of ventilation. If you live with any group of budgies for a while, it will become obvious why. The shedding of skin and feather dander in most Australian birds is a major maintenance and health issue for you and the birds.

 

In the heat of Phoenix, I run a 1/3hp, 4,500 cfm, evaporative cooler on a thermostat/timer for most of the year. When it is too cold to run the cooler regularly, I need to vacuum and sweep the accumulated dust and down on a weekly basis to keep my personal allergic reactions under control. Even then, I look for warm days when I can run the fan for even a short time without causing temperature discomfort to stress the birds.

 

Dirty perches and pyramided piled droppings are a scourge, especially during damp periods. They are a great source of coccidia and other parasites when damp. A serious wipe with warm soapy water works very well, as does a spare set of perches. Even the perpetual wet spot on the floor of a cage caused by a leaking drinker can be a deadly source of coccidia. I place great faith in wire cage bottoms thus allowing the fecal matter and moisture to fall out of reach of the birds.

 

Stacked breeding cages, one over another, are the best way to propagate chronic and acute airborne diseases. Overcrowding, of which cage stacking is only one form, will drive certain airborne diseases, the most serious of which is Avian TB, through your flock with only minimal warning before it is way too late to save the whole flock. No one likes to talk about avian TB as there is no simple cure but it is endemic to all our captive birds. Avian TB is the single highest cause of death in immune-compromised humans so we will have more on this issue in later chapters. Overcrowding itself can drive disease processes through a flock. In other words two similar sized flocks with the same initial infection from a single bird will respond in different ways proportional to the population density.

 

I use a single layer of cages with an open wire bottom. The entire cage refuse falls onto the concrete floor were I scrape and sweep weekly. My bird room has a three-inch floor drain so that I can hose out the area to remove down and other “sticky” refuse. I cap this three-inch drain with a steel/rubber cap that must be removed to drain not a grill that will plug with feathers etc. The plug also prevents small rodents and snakes from entering the building.

Moving birds, like going to a show or just catching for inspection, is very stressful. To deal with this, it is often a prudent idea to administer an electrolyte in the drinking water before and after the move. This reduces the impact of stress on the bird by improving the state of hydration in what are often the best, most fragile birds we own. This electrolyte can be a purchased as a liquid intended for human babies or mixed from a powder concentrate intended for chickens purchased from a feed store. Do not over dose this important tool.

 

If you cannot figure out the dosage ratios, please find help to do the math. We will talk more on Budgerigar water requirements later. But I must say that I believe from observation of my own birds that the modern Exhibition Budgerigar has lost much if not all of its previous desert adaptation abilities through the selective breeding for specialized show features, some individuals are more susceptible that others. I still read in our Budgie publications that many fanciers are living with outmoded beliefs on keeping desert-adapted birds and so cause irreparable damage to their best birds by dehydrating them at shows.