The most important principle or activity in keeping any animal in captivity is to reduce stress experienced by the captive. The sources of this stress can be categorized for the convenience of discussion as: Environmental, Dietary, Social, Genetic and Disease. Stress from any source is totally and completely cumulative on the well being of the captive and as such is only categorized for the convenience of discussion and resulting management options. The use of aviary techniques to reduce stress can actually prevent a disease organism that is latent in the flock, from developing by promoting or allowing natural resistance to prevail. This is a very powerful result beyond the reach of our antibiotic culture.
Most veterinary discussions about animal care focus on disease as the source of stress. This clinical discussion, while especially useful in individual pet care, is far too narrow to be completely useful to the animal keeper managing a large group of animals. The focus of this article will be on allaying problems whose source can be found in all areas of stress generation: Part one will cover some areas of Environmental Stress. Dietary Stress, Social Stress, Genetic Stress and Disease Stress will be covered in later articles.
The discussion of animal care and management from the perspective of cause not symptom has been very useful to me over the years, as it is far easier to manipulate potential sources of stress than second-guess symptoms caused by some cumulative group of stresses. This approach involves making management changes then listening to your flock for any change in chatter.
This
approach gives access to some of the reasons why when a novice (beginner)
might single-mindedly follow instructions of a champion (successful
breeder) with the novice often not getting the same result as the
champion. Also implicit in the focus of this method is that veterinary
care of individual birds, however effective, is not the procedure
of choice in maintaining a large flock of breeding birds. Stated another
way, any bird that succumbs to a major disease (chronic or catastrophic)
is lost to the breeding program even if it survives, so prevention
is the only effective path for the group.
Environmental Stress Defined:
The
Stress experienced by the captive from the caging and the location
of the caging itself is the total environment in the case of a captive
bird. These sources of stress are most commonly dealt with in the
standard budgie texts so we will restrict our comments to a few subjects
not usually found in “How to” Budgie texts:
Zinc poisoning from
the cage galvanized coating: I feel that this may be an important
yet not often discussed issue. Budgerigars hang on the wire
with their beaks rather a lot, providing an ample opportunity for
ingestion.
We allow our welded wire to age (oxidize) outdoors
for several months sometimes years before using it. After aging,
and brushing to remove flakes, we coat the oxidized wire with a low-viscosity
water based acrylic-flooring product to reduce further flaking of
the zinc and ingestion. Lead poisoning is rare but the chewing of
old wood surfaces can expose older layers of toxic paint pigment.
Cover all chewable surfaces with sheet metal or one of the newer Portland
cement based boards edged with metal. Since I live in a very rural
area, I can also safely provide Mesquite branches to distract from
destructive chewing and provide nutrition to the birds especially
in spring when the growth is new.
We use ½ X 1 and ½ X 2 inch-welded
wire to contain the birds. This wire will not repel mice at all so
I further cover all external openings where necessary (including the
fan opening and vent) with 1/3-inch hardware cloth to handle the all
the rodents. All external openings are also covered with either 60%
shade cloth, 80% shade cloth or bug screen to repel mosquitoes and
flies.
We minimize the use of wood in any of our animal enclosures. Wood is difficult to clean and disinfect. Twenty years ago I used to keep my birds in homemade cages that would be classed as fine cabinets, but disease struck my flock in 1987 and I burned all of my fine cabinets in a bonfire like Salem Witches.
A car
headlight or a cat strafing the aviary of roosting birds: Double aviary
wire and strategically placed sight-barriers and wind deflection shields
perform wonders in reducing stress caused by exposure. Over the years
I have learned much about the night stresses of my birds by taking
an occasional quiet stroll through my aviary at night, where breathing
and air sac mite issues become apparent in the night stillness. Often
rodents and worse may be observed running silently over the wire silhouetted
against the night sky.
Rigid perches in the flight: Having perches
that move on impact is actually a critical issue for passerine birds
like canaries. I also believe we could effect a lifestyle health improvement
in budgies by paying attention to this subtle exercise issue in our
flights. The low amplitude spring action of a perch that is affixed
at only one end gives a powerful if subtle exercise to our charges.
This may be analogous to the stress reduction effect of standing on
bare concrete verses standing on a rubber mat on humans. The forces
generated by this impact can fatigue the ½ X 1 wire holding the perch
over years of use so plan on using the largest fender washers possible
to minimize maintenance.
The use of cedar or corncob bedding
in the nest box or flight: Any wood that has an odor such as cedar
or pine has a potential for liver damage when used in close quarters.
Ground corncobs carry too many mould spores to be healthy in a confined
space. I use shredded aspen bedding and coconut choir in my nest boxes,
as they are the safest bedding available and shredded aspen packs
to form an absorbent mat in the nest box.
Lack of fresh air: Every budgie text even those in the chilly,
damp UK emphasize the importance of ventilation. If you live with
any group of budgies for a while, it will become obvious why. The
shedding of skin and feather dander in most Australian birds is a
major maintenance and health issue for you and the birds.
In
the heat of Phoenix, I run a 1/3hp, 4,500 cfm, evaporative cooler
on a thermostat/timer for most of the year. When it is too cold to
run the cooler regularly, I need to vacuum and sweep the accumulated
dust and down on a weekly basis to keep my personal allergic reactions
under control. Even then, I look for warm days when I can run the
fan for even a short time without causing temperature discomfort to
stress the birds.
Dirty perches and pyramided piled droppings
are a scourge, especially during damp periods. They are a great source
of coccidia and other parasites when damp. A serious wipe with warm
soapy water works very well, as does a spare set of perches. Even
the perpetual wet spot on the floor of a cage caused by a leaking
drinker can be a deadly source of coccidia. I place great faith in
wire cage bottoms thus allowing the fecal matter and moisture to fall
out of reach of the birds.
Stacked breeding cages, one over another, are the best way to propagate chronic and acute airborne diseases. Overcrowding, of which cage stacking is only one form, will drive certain airborne diseases, the most serious of which is Avian TB, through your flock with only minimal warning before it is way too late to save the whole flock. No one likes to talk about avian TB as there is no simple cure but it is endemic to all our captive birds. Avian TB is the single highest cause of death in immune-compromised humans so we will have more on this issue in later chapters. Overcrowding itself can drive disease processes through a flock. In other words two similar sized flocks with the same initial infection from a single bird will respond in different ways proportional to the population density.
I use a single layer of cages with an open wire bottom.
The entire cage refuse falls onto the concrete floor were I scrape
and sweep weekly. My bird room has a three-inch floor drain so that
I can hose out the area to remove down and other “sticky” refuse.
I cap this three-inch drain with a steel/rubber cap that must be removed
to drain not a grill that will plug with feathers etc. The plug also
prevents small rodents and snakes from entering the building.
Moving birds, like going to a show or just catching for inspection, is very stressful. To deal with this, it is often a prudent idea to administer an electrolyte in the drinking water before and after the move. This reduces the impact of stress on the bird by improving the state of hydration in what are often the best, most fragile birds we own. This electrolyte can be a purchased as a liquid intended for human babies or mixed from a powder concentrate intended for chickens purchased from a feed store. Do not over dose this important tool.
If you cannot figure out the dosage ratios, please find help
to do the math. We will talk more on Budgerigar water requirements
later. But I must say that I believe from observation of my own birds
that the modern Exhibition Budgerigar has lost much if not all of
its previous desert adaptation abilities through the selective breeding
for specialized show features, some individuals are more susceptible
that others. I still read in our Budgie publications that many fanciers
are living with outmoded beliefs on keeping desert-adapted birds and
so cause irreparable damage to their best birds by dehydrating them
at shows.